exploring the two Italian lakes

Its easy to appreciate why the Italian lakes of Como and Maggiore have long been a magnet for royalty, world leaders, writers and Hollywood stars. There are the big, bold landscapes of cobalt water enveloped by deep green forests and impressively tall mountains.

The allure of Lakes Como and Maggiore runs as deep as their bright waters, plan your trip to discover vivid scenery, fresh local produce and a constant microclimate sunshine

It’s easy to appreciate why the Italian lakes of Como and Maggiore have long been a magnet for royalty, world leaders, writers and Hollywood stars. 

There are the big, bold landscapes of cobalt water enveloped by deep green forests and impressively tall mountains.

There are the richly colourful lakeside villages steeped in history, where cobbled lanes wind past ancient churches to flower-lined promenades.

And then there are the illustrious palaces and villas, many with glorious botanic gardens, sprinkled along the shores.

TUI Lakes & Mountains has been taking guests to Como and Maggiore for many years and has an in-depth insight into how they offer an irresistible combination of relaxation and diverse activities.

The lakes are also gateways to outstanding excursions beyond their shores, which your TUI resort rep will be happy to help you arrange.

So, which lake to choose? Read on to discover their individual appeal, but if you still can’t decide, why not divide your holiday between the two?

Lake Como

Como seems to exist in its own gorgeous little world. The wishbone-shaped lake is a 29-mile long jewel glittering between steep, densely-forested mountains whose slopes plunge straight into the serene waters, meaning all the history and old-school romance of its villages are picturesquely squeezed along the banks.

Intimate resorts

TUI has chosen four resorts where the three arms of Como fuse in spectacular style. 

Lakeside living: Varenna village on Lake Como Credit: Getty

Beautiful Bellagio is the most celebrated village, clustered on the tip of the confluence. From the spine of its old town, alleys overhung with flower-filled balconies lead down to the enchanting waterfront. 

One short walk will take you to the minuscule harbour of Punta Spartivento; a slightly longer one leads to Pescallo, a hidden fishing village on the wilder eastern arm of the lake.

Tremezzo, Cadenabbia and Menaggio are all on Como’s western shore and, like Bellagio on the opposite side of the lake, offer an enticing mixture of grand architecture, strolls along palm-fringed promenades and a wealth of shops and inviting restaurants.

Characterised by citrus groves, leafy lanes, noble old mansions and the slender tower of San Lorenzo Church, Tremezzo is backed by the green massif of Monte Crocione. 

Virtually next door, Cadenabbia has been a popular spot with British visitors, including Queen Victoria, for well over a century. A gently faded grandeur adds considerably to its charm.

Those who love walking will doubtless wish to spend a morning on the Greenway, a well-marked, six-mile route that meanders through hills and hamlets on an old Roman road.

A short way up the coast, Menaggio is a piece of medieval heaven climbing up the hill, with sweeping views from its elegant esplanade and castle ruins, as well as intimate squares for supping wine and one of the area’s best lidos, with two pools and a sandy beach.

Glorious villas and gardens

Three historic gems are enough to make Lake Como the perfect holiday choice. An absolute must is Villa del Balbianello, best approached by ferry or tour boat. An 18th-century, twin-towered mansion housing the museum of explorer-owner Guido Monzino, it is idyllically set on a promontory shaded by magnificent plane trees. Its terraced gardens are dotted with statues and abundant blooms and lawns – the setting for scenes in the film Casino Royale.

Nearby, Villa Carlotta looms proudly above 14 acres of lovingly-planned gardens inspired by Babylon. You can admire the art treasures in the 17th-century mansion then stroll among the fountains, cedars, rhododendrons, camellias and bamboo.

Grand gardens: the stunning Villa Balbianello is only accessible by boat Credit: Getty

Walk along the shore from Belaggio – just a short ferry ride from Cadenabbia or Menaggio – and you’ll come to Villa Melzi with its wonderful gardens, vivid borders and sculptures sharing the space with delicate trees overhanging secret ponds, with a Moorish-style summer house set near the shore.

A captivating ‘capital’

From TUI’s resorts, a leisurely ferry cruise can be taken down to Lake Como’s eponymous ‘capital’. 

The journey is as enjoyable as the destination. From the deck, you can see the picturesque ravine at Nesso – see if you can spot the waterfall within. Look out for a handsome 18th-century villa above a stone jetty – that’s L’Oleandra, home to George Clooney.

Further down, the palatial Villa Fontanelle is where former owner Gianni Versace entertained the likes of Sir Elton John and Princess Diana.

Como is a fine place to spend a few hours, with a recently renovated lakeside promenade and the imposing 15th-century façade of the cathedral looming over the main square. 

You cannot leave the town without jumping on the funicular up to the village of Brunate. At the top, one short walk will take you to a bird’s-eye vista of Como far below, another to a fabulous lake overlook. If you’re feeling fit, follow the marked route to the hilltop lighthouse for an even more astonishing panorama.

Great days out

Across the mountains that loom behind TUI’s west-coast resorts, you’ll come to glistening Lake Lugano, and on its shores the picturesque city of Lugano. It’s a thoroughly rewarding day trip, the cosmopolitan town rising up from a pretty promenade festooned with planted borders. 

The Bernina Express, one of Europe’s great rail journeys, can be boarded as an excursion from Como. The bright red train glides past glaciers and waterfalls to the chic resort of St Moritz. A highlight of the journey is the remarkable Brusio spiral viaduct.

Pop across to Varenna on Como’s eastern shore and you can catch a train to Milan – about an hour – for a large dose of culture and shopping. In Varenna itself, with its narrow cobbled alleys and piazzas, and with fine views from its 12th-century castle.

The old walled city of Bergamo is another compelling day-trip destination. Stuffed with cobbled alleys, notable churches, grand piazzas and fine-art galleries, it oozes history.

Lake Maggiore

Shaped like a wobbly dolphin, Lake Maggiore is so long – almost 40 miles – its top pokes into Switzerland. Take a seat on the promenade by the dolphin’s ‘fin’ and you’ll soak in a vision of bewitching islands set in lustrous blue water buzzing with little boats, with a backdrop of jagged peaks. It’s a vibrant yet serene paradise.

Historic hotspot: the old walled city of Bergamo is well worth a day trip Credit: Getty

Stylish resorts

Baveno was deemed a suitable place for Winston Churchill to spend his honeymoon, so naturally TUI considered this laid-back village to be ideal for its guests.

In a captivating place of Roman origins, you’ll discover a charming square and a string of opulent dwellings set on the graceful waterfront promenade.

Just over a mile down the coast is Stresa, with a lively atmosphere in an enviable position at the foot of wooded hills. If you’re looking for plenty to see and do without much effort, it’s hard to beat.

A long, wide esplanade invites a stroll; wander through to the town centre to find quaint shops and trattorias on lanes linking cosy squares.

It’s almost obligatory to jump on the cable car up to Mottarone at almost 5,000ft to take the short hike to the summit, from where seven lakes are visible. On the way down, stop at the village of Alpino with its 10-acre alpine botanic garden.

Within walking distance of Stresa is Villa Pallavicino, a neoclassical mansion with remarkably manicured gardens and a zoo.

Walk south and you’ll discover a gigantic statue, the Colossus of St Charles Borromeo, a Catholic saint and archbishop of Milan. From here you can take in the striking site of Rocca di Angera, a castle that looks precariously perched on a mighty rock spur.

Beguiling Borromean Islands

Gaze out from the promenades of Stresa or Baveno and you’ll be itching to visit the enticing islands that are just a quick boat-hop away.

Isola Bella, which means ‘beautiful island’, is home to one of the most enchanting gardens in Europe – a 10-tiered wedding-cake fantasy infused with intriguing statuary, exotic trees and lily ponds, and roamed by fanning white peacocks, all set amid the scent and colour of thousands of blooms.

The Borromeo family, wealthy merchants whose descendants still live here, transformed the island in the 17th century. Its crowning glory is the three-deck outdoor ‘theatre’ with multiple alcoves.

It’s worth taking a guided tour of the adjoining palace to learn about the family history and view the grand rooms where Napoleon once stayed.

Close to Isola Bella, and in complete contrast, is Isola dei Pescatori – Fishermen’s Island – which remains pleasingly rough-and-ready compared to its distinguished sister. It’s a joy to wander the tiny lanes, stopping for lunch at a quaint restaurant.

Further out in the lake is Isola Madre – Mother’s Island. Its extensive English-style garden, with meadows and cascades of flowers, was first laid out by another member of the Borromeo family, a keen botanist who brought in plants from all over the world. 

Enthusiastic horticulturalists should put another fabulous park on their list. Villa Taranto, a pleasant ferry-ride from Stresa, is a haven of exotic plants and ornamental features criss-crossed by paths that reveal a surprise around every turn.

Memorable excursions

If you only take one excursion, make it Lake Orta, Maggiore’s tranquil little sister. Drink in the atmosphere of pretty San Giulio’s waterfront piazza, then explore the tiny isle just a stone’s skip away – be sure not to miss the extraordinary frescoed interior of its basilica.

If you have the energy, walk up the hill behind the town to Sacro Monte, where 20 chapels – many with endearing tableaux – are hidden in the woods.

Being so close to the Alps, why not spend a day among the spectacular peaks? One spellbinding journey can take you to sophisticated Zermatt in the shadow of the Matterhorn. Alternatively, visit the charming alpine village of Macugnaga at the base of the immense wall of Europe’s second highest peak, Monte Rosa.

A railway runs along Maggiore’s lower west coast, so you could consider hopping on a train to inspect Milan’s epic cathedral and handsome La Scala opera house.

If you like surprises, buses can take you to the village of Cannobio near the Swiss border. You’ll not easily forget its splendid 16th-century palaces, old fishermen’s dwellings and the most magical piazza on the whole lake.

Must see: San Giulio island on Lake Orta Credit: Getty
Stir up your senses on a Lakes & Mountains holiday

The clean, crisp air, the dazzling scenery, the slow pace of life and the serenity of the surroundings – these are some of the reasons we choose to visit the world’s lakeside towns and mountainous regions.

From the majesty of the Italian Lakes and the mind-blowing panoramas of the Swiss Alps to the cultural hotbeds in Slovenia and Germany, a TUI Lakes & Mountains holiday provides the perfect balance of peaceful exploration and expanded horizons. 

For more information and to book a TUI Lakes & Mountains holiday, visit tui.co.uk/holidays/lakes-and-mountains

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